Last updated: October 2026
Mount Akagi is one of the defining mountains of Gunma Prefecture. Travel around the prefecture for long enough and the name “Akagi Shrine” keeps appearing. Look at a map, though, and something puzzling emerges.
There is not one Akagi Shrine. There are several.
On the southern foot of the mountain stands Miyosawa Akagi Shrine. Out on the Maebashi plain is Ninomiya Akagi Shrine. And high on the mountain, on the shore of Lake Onuma, is Odo Akagi Shrine.
What makes this more interesting is that no settled consensus exists on which of these three corresponds to the “Akagi Shrine” named in early historical records. The question of which shrine is the “real” one turns out to be the wrong place to start. A more useful question is this: how did people honor one sacred mountain from several different places?
This guide visits all three shrines in turn and uses them to look at Mount Akagi worship as it survives in Gunma today.

Quick Facts
| Miyosawa Akagi Shrine | Ninomiya Akagi Shrine | Odo Akagi Shrine | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Address | 114 Miyosawa-machi, Maebashi, Gunma | 886 Ninomiya-machi, Maebashi, Gunma | 4-2 Akagiyama, Fujimi-machi, Maebashi, Gunma |
| Setting | Southern foot of Mount Akagi | Maebashi plain | Mount Akagi, shore of Lake Onuma |
| Landscape | Forest, water, giant cedars | Long approach, village surroundings | Lake, mountain, mist |
| Main highlights | Water’s edge, cedar forest, old shrine buildings | Approach path, temple bell, stone pagoda, cultural properties | Lake Onuma, vermilion shrine buildings, mountain scenery |
| Parking | Free parking available | Available | Available |
| Goshuin | Available | Check before visiting | Available |
| Best for | Forest and quiet | History and cultural properties | Lake and mountain scenery |
The official guidance for Miyosawa Akagi Shrine gives the shrine office’s usual hours as 9:30 to 16:30, though these may change by season. For Ninomiya Akagi Shrine, goshuin have been reported as issued, but regular issuing hours could not be confirmed from official information. Anyone visiting mainly for a goshuin should check beforehand.
Who This Guide Is For
- Visitors who want to understand Akagi worship as a whole, rather than one shrine in isolation
- Those interested in mountain worship and nature-centered belief
- Travelers who prefer rooted, local shrines to famous tourist sites
- Anyone who wants to see traces of Shinto–Buddhist fusion and old cultural properties in person
- Those who want to know the Three Mountains of Jomo as sacred mountains, not just scenic ones
Three Things to Know Before You Go
- “Akagi Shrine” is not a single shrine.
- Which present-day shrine matches the Akagi Shrine of historical records is not a simple question.
- Miyosawa, Ninomiya, and Odo differ greatly in landscape and in local role, even though all three are part of Akagi worship.
The differences between them suggest that Akagi worship was never confined to one shrine. It spread from the mountain’s foot to the plain below and up to the summit area.
Mount Akagi: Not One Peak, but a Mountain Region
The name suggests a single large peak. In reality, Mount Akagi is a broad volcanic mountain region made up of multiple peaks, including Kurobiyama, together with crater lakes such as Lake Onuma and Lake Konuma.
Akagi is also one of the Three Mountains of Jomo, alongside Mount Haruna and Mount Myogi, and is one of the mountains most closely associated with Gunma’s identity. For more on the region, see Why Gunma?
For people in earlier centuries, a mountain like this was more than scenery. Water flowing down from it irrigated rice paddies and supported daily life. At the same time, forces beyond human control, such as weather and disaster, were also felt to come from the mountain.
The official history of Miyosawa Akagi Shrine explains that the Akagi deity has long been revered as a god connected with agriculture and water. For that reason, it helps to see the shrines not as separate buildings but as parts of a wide sphere of worship that includes mountain, water, farmland, and settlements.
If you are new to the basics, start with What Is a Shinto Shrine?
1. Miyosawa Akagi Shrine
Akagi Worship in Forest and Water
The first impression at Miyosawa is not of a building but of the forest itself. Passing through a large torii gate leads into a precinct surrounded by towering cedars.

There are no tourist facilities here. There are stone lanterns, cedar woods, moss, and old wooden buildings. The whole precinct feels like a single piece of forest left standing on the southern slope of Mount Akagi.
Early Records of the Akagi Deity
The Akagi deity appears in early historical sources. The deity was granted court rank in 839, and the Engishiki, a register of shrines completed in 927, lists an Akagi shrine as a myojin taisha, one of the more prestigious shrine classifications recorded in the text.
It cannot be stated, however, that this ancient shrine is simply the present Miyosawa Akagi Shrine. The more careful reading is that the Miyosawa area has long been one important center of Akagi worship.
Water at the Center of the Precinct
Water is the most striking feature here. A pond-like body of water lies within the grounds, with the hand-washing basin set beside it.

Trees reflect on the surface and carp swim below. The feeling is less that “a shrine has some water” and more that a shrine exists within a place of water.
Given the close relationship between Akagi’s water and local farming, the scene reads as more than decoration. It seems to express the connection between mountain and daily life that sits at the heart of Akagi worship.
A Shrine Building Absorbed by the Forest

In contrast to the bright vermilion of Odo, the building shows the color of old wood, blending into the surrounding forest. Walking here, the impression is not of a forest surrounding a shrine, but of a place of prayer set down inside the forest.
2. Ninomiya Akagi Shrine
Akagi Worship Preserved in Plains Life
Moving from Miyosawa to Ninomiya changes the landscape completely. This shrine is not in the mountains at all. It stands on the Maebashi plain, among houses and fields.

A long approach path leads on from there. Here, the transition goes slowly from ordinary village space into sacred ground.

What Does “Ninomiya” Mean?
To understand the name, it helps to know how shrines were ranked in the old province of Kozuke, now Gunma. The first-ranked shrine of the province, the ichinomiya, is Nukisaki Shrine in present-day Tomioka. The Akagi deity is recorded as having been treated as the ninomiya, the second-ranked shrine.
An important caution applies. The “Ninomiya” shrine of the historical records cannot simply be identified with today’s Ninomiya Akagi Shrine. Which of the three shrines corresponds to the Akagi Shrine of the old sources is still not easily settled. It is safer to describe Ninomiya Akagi Shrine as one of the shrines associated with the historical Ninomiya Akagi tradition.
A Precinct Rich in Cultural Properties
Many cultural properties survive at Ninomiya Akagi Shrine, including a Nasori mask, a temple bell, votive paintings, a stone pagoda, the shrine site itself, a ritual procession, and daidai kagura, a form of sacred dance.

The Nasori mask is dated to 1453 by an inscription on its reverse. Taken together, these cultural properties suggest that Ninomiya was not just a single building but a long-standing center of local belief, including festivals and performing arts.
A Temple Bell at a Shinto Shrine

Maebashi city materials describe this bell as dating from the Edo period and designate it a city-level important cultural property.
Visitors may wonder why a Shinto shrine has a Buddhist bell. Before the Meiji era, Shinto and Buddhism were not separated as clearly as they are today. Gods and buddhas shared the same sacred space, a pattern known as shinbutsu-shugo, and it was entirely ordinary for centuries. The bell at Ninomiya is one trace of that history still visible on the grounds. For more, see Understanding Shinbutsu-shugo.
A Stone Pagoda Estimated to Date from the Nanbokucho Period
A hoto, a type of stone pagoda sometimes called the “Akagi Pagoda,” also stands on the grounds. City cultural property materials estimate that it was made in the Nanbokucho period in the 14th century, and traces of lacquer that once covered the surface remain.

Another tradition continues as well: a ritual procession linking the Ninomiya and Miyosawa Akagi shrines is still handed down. Here, Akagi worship is visible not only in the mountains, but in the villages, festivals, and community life of the plain.
3. Odo Akagi Shrine
A Shrine on the Shore of Lake Onuma
Odo is the most dramatic of the three. Driving up Mount Akagi to Lake Onuma, the world changes completely from the first two shrines. Lake and mountain stand together, and in the mist rise bright vermilion shrine buildings.

It is the opposite of the wooden building at Miyosawa, and hard to believe it belongs to the same name. Yet the real distinction here is not the color of the building. It is the lake right beside it.
Lake Onuma, Lake Konuma, and Akagi Worship
Maebashi city historical materials explain that at Odo, worship has centered not only on Mount Akagi but on Lake Onuma, Lake Konuma, and their water.
According to shrine tradition, the deity was originally enshrined on what is now Mount Jizo, and moved to the south shore of Lake Onuma in 806. This remains the shrine’s own account of its origins. The medieval Shintoshu, a collection of religious tales, also contains stories involving the lakes and the Akagi deity.
The Lake as Part of the Sacred Ground

Pavilion, lake, and mountain share one view, with human religious building and the natural setting of Mount Akagi together. The scene is beautiful on a clear day, and changes in character when mist rolls in.
Forest and water at Miyosawa. Plain and village at Ninomiya. Lake and mountain at Odo. The three share a name but offer very different settings for prayer.
Where Is the “True” Main Shrine?
An Edo-period dispute shows how complicated the relationship among the shrines has long been.
A plaque reading “Kozuke Province Sosha Odo Akagi Shrine” was dedicated on the Odo side, and an accompanying note used the word honmiya, meaning “main shrine.” The Miyosawa side objected, and a dispute followed with the Buddhist temple attached to Odo. The matter continued over a long period, and records state that in 1816 the use of the word “honmiya” itself was to be settled by discussion between the parties.
In other words, “Which one is the real Akagi Shrine?” is not a question only modern visitors ask. Even historically, deciding where the center of Akagi worship lay was not simple.
That is why it makes more sense to understand each shrine as having honored Mount Akagi in its own region and history, rather than ranking one above the others.
Comparing the Three Shrines
| Miyosawa | Ninomiya | Odo | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Landscape | Deep forest | Plain and village | Mountain summit area and lake |
| Impression | Quiet, natural | Local, historical | Mountain scenery, water |
| Relation to water | Mountain-foot water, water within the precinct | Water of the plain’s farming and daily life | Lake Onuma and Lake Konuma |
| Architecture | Wood, blending into forest | Old wooden buildings | Bright vermilion |
| Main things to see | Forest, water, giant cedars, shrine buildings | Approach, bell, stone pagoda, cultural properties | Lake, vermilion buildings, mountain view |
| Recommended for | Quiet old shrines | History and cultural properties | Lake and mountain together |
Which Akagi Shrine Should You Visit?
Visiting all three is ideal. With limited time, the choice can follow your interests.
For forest and quiet: Miyosawa. Visitors who want to walk slowly among cedars, water, moss, and old wooden buildings will find Miyosawa the best fit.
For local history: Ninomiya. The long approach, bell, stone pagoda, and old festivals show how Akagi worship took root in a farming community.
For lake and mountain scenery: Odo. Odo pairs naturally with a visit to Lake Onuma and the mountain itself. A vermilion shrine, a lake, and a misty mountain make for the most memorable setting of the three.
Visiting All Three
With a car, the three shrines can be treated as one theme. The suggested order is:
Ninomiya → Miyosawa → Odo
The route begins on the plain at Ninomiya, passes through the forest at the mountain’s southern foot at Miyosawa, and ends at the lake at Odo. Rather than three separate stops, the journey itself becomes a change in terrain: the plain where people live, then the forest at the mountain’s foot, then the lake at the summit.
Map: The Three Akagi Shrines
Ninomiya Akagi Shrine
Miyosawa Akagi Shrine
Odo Akagi Shrine
How to Behave Respectfully
All three are active places of worship. Bow lightly at the torii gate, keep voices low, and avoid getting in the way of other worshippers. Where a hand-washing basin is available, rinse hands and mouth before praying. Full guidance is in Shrine Etiquette in Japan.
Where nature itself is bound up with belief, as at the water’s edge at Miyosawa and the lakeshore at Odo, treat the surrounding water, trees, and stones with care as well as the buildings.
Goshuin
Goshuin, the shrine stamp-and-calligraphy records, are issued at Miyosawa Akagi Shrine. The official site gives the shrine office’s usual opening hours as 9:30 to 16:30, though these may change by season. Goshuin are also issued at Odo Akagi Shrine. For Ninomiya Akagi Shrine, reports of goshuin being issued exist, but regular issuing hours could not be confirmed from official information. Anyone visiting mainly for a goshuin should check in advance.
For background, see What Is a Goshuin?
Practical Notes for Foreign Visitors
- Travel by car is the most realistic way to visit all three. Without a car, the trip becomes difficult to complete in one day.
- Miyosawa: Official guidance gives about 30 minutes by car from Isesaki IC or Komagata IC. A demand-type bus from Ogo Station on the Jomo Electric Railway is another option.
- Ninomiya: Located on the Maebashi plain, it is the most accessible of the three.
- Odo: Located on Lake Onuma, high on Mount Akagi. Public transport from the Maebashi Station area exists, but bus schedules change by season and day of the week, so check the latest timetable before visiting.
- Walking: Time on foot is needed within the grounds at Miyosawa and Ninomiya. Some places have stone steps or unpaved sections, so comfortable shoes are recommended.
- Weather: Odo is cooler than the plain and the weather can change quickly. Cold sets in from autumn.
- Winter: Snow and icy roads are possible on Mount Akagi. Check road conditions and carry suitable equipment before driving up.
Rather than hurrying through all three, it is easier to understand this belief by treating Mount Akagi, Lake Onuma, and the forest of the foothills as one region.
Seeing One Mountain, Not One Shrine
When visiting shrines in Japan, attention tends to go to the buildings: the torii, the worship hall, the main sanctuary. Visiting the three Akagi shrines leaves something that buildings alone do not explain.
The forest and water of Miyosawa. The plain and festivals of Ninomiya. The lake and mountain of Odo. The places are far apart, and their historical standing is not simple. Even so, behind all of them stands the same Mount Akagi.
To understand Akagi worship, it is not enough to look at each building. One has to look at the mountain that connects them. Mount Akagi is not a backdrop. It is a place where people have received water, watched the weather, felt awe and gratitude, and directed their prayers for a very long time.
Final Thoughts
Imagining a single famous “Akagi Shrine” makes the belief of this region hard to follow. Walking all three changes the view.
Miyosawa, surrounded by deep forest and water. Ninomiya, preserved within the life of the plain. Odo, framed by lake and mountain. The three places are entirely different. Historically, too, the question of which one is the “main shrine” was never simple.
So the useful question when visiting is not “which Akagi Shrine is the real one?” but “why was one mountain honored from so many places?”
A journey through the three shrines is not a collection of three shrines. It is a way of seeing one sacred mountain from three places.
Author’s Note
This guide is based on visits to Miyosawa, Ninomiya, and Odo Akagi shrines, on-site information at each shrine, and official shrine and municipal materials, including those of the city of Maebashi.
The history of the Akagi shrines contains points that cannot be settled definitively, including which present-day shrine corresponds to the Akagi Shrine of early records. This guide tries to distinguish what can be confirmed from sources from what each shrine’s own tradition holds.
Sources
- Akagi Shrine (Miyosawa) official site
- City of Maebashi: Akagi worship and the honmiya dispute
- City of Maebashi: Akagi Shrine (Miyosawa-machi)
- City of Maebashi: cultural properties at Ninomiya Akagi Shrine
- City of Maebashi: Nasori mask
- City of Maebashi: stone pagoda and procession materials
- City of Maebashi: Mount Akagi worship and Odo Akagi Shrine
- Gunma Prefecture official tourism site: Akagi Shrine (Odo)
- Gunma tourism information: Nukisaki Shrine

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